Shoemaking



- B. F. MAYO I SHOEMAKING Original Filed Oct. 24, 1917 Patented Jan. 12,1926.

UNITED .STATES PATENT OFFICE.

BENJAMIN F. MAYO, OF'SALEM I, MASSACHUSETTS; ETTA MAYO, OF SALEM, MASSA-GHUSETTS, EXECUTE/IX OF SAID BENJAMIN F. MAYO, DECEASED, ASSIGNOB TOUNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A COR-SHOEMAKING.

Application filed October 24, 1917, Serial N'o. 198,199. Renewed June19, 1922. Serial No. 569,575-

2 '0 all whom it may concern: 1

Be it known that I, BENJAMIN a citizen of the United States, residing atSalem, in the county of Essex and Commonwealth of Massachusetts, haveinvented certain Improvements in Shoemaking, of'which the followingdescription, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is aspecification, like reference characters on the drawings indicating likeparts in the several figures.

This invention relates to a method of relatively positioning the partsof shoes.

In the assembling of the parts of a shoe, the placing of the parts inthe proper relative positions is a matter requiring considerable skilland care, since the appearance and quality of the shoe may be greatlyimaired by even a slight displacement of the parts from their correctrelative positions. One method of relatively locating the parts employedheretofore consists in making one or more gaging marks upon one of theparts to be relatively positioned and locating an edge of the other ofsaid parts even with this mark. According to another method a series ofedge gages have been employed, these gages first being located in apredetermined position with relationto one of the parts and the other ofthe parts then being positioned properly relatively to the first part byplacing its edge or edges in engagement with these gages.

These methods are open to certain objections. In the first of thesemethods the relative placing of the parts is performed wholly by the eyeand requires a great deal of care. It is often impracticable todetermine absolutely the relative positions of the parts by means ofsuch gaging marks and the assembling of the parts requires considerableskill and experience. When edge gages are employed for relativelylocating the parts, such gages also ordinarily allow a certain amount ofvariation in the relative positions of the parts, so that the operationof relatively placing the parts requires some'skill and must becarefully performed. Neither of these methods insures the properrelative positioning of the parts; The assembling operation is oftencarelessly or unskillfully performed and imperfect work results.

F. MAYO,-

There are certain other difficulties involved in following eitherofthese methods, particularly when one or both of the parts to berelatively positioned consists of thin, flexible material such as thatof which the upper of a shoe is made. When two parts of an upper for ashoe of a certain size are died out, they have a certain predeterminedoutline, the dimensions of the one part corresponding to that of theother. After being cut to shape, the parts are usually rolled and tiedin bundles and remain for some time in this condition before assembling.The result often is that when the parts reach the operator to beassembled they are warped or wrinkled, and the stock has shrunk to someextent, so that they will not lie properly in'position and that they donot correspond in dimensions. With the parts in such condition it is avery difficult matter to locate them in the proper relative positions byfollowing either of the above methods. In order to follow either ofthese methods successfully it is practically essential that all wrinklesand unevennesses along the portions of the parts which are to overlapshould be smoothed out, and that the parts should correspond indimensions. When edge gages are employed, these gages are set for acertain predetermined outline of the part to be positioned. When thepart is wrinkled or shrunk, thereby diminishing this predeterminedoutline, the gaging of the part from its edge may fail to locate thepart properly. Furthermore, in such case it may be difficult orpractically impossible to bring the edges of the part up to the severaledge gages. Also, to locate a part consisting of thin, flexible materialproperly by means of an edge gage is a diflicult operation, since even aslight forcing of the edge of the part against the gage will result inan improper placing of the part.

One object of the present invention is to provide an improved process ofrelatively positioning the parts of shoes by which the parts may be morequickly and accurately assembled in the proper relative positions thancould bedone by any process followed ieretofore.

Another object of the invention is to provide animproved process ofrelatively positioning the parts of shoes which will obviate thedifficulties involved in the following of prior processes, which willinsure the placing of the parts in their proper relative positionswithout the exercise of any particular skill or care on the part of theopera tor, and which will enable the parts readily to beheld in theirproper relative positions.

With these objects in view the invention consists in the processinvolving the novel features hereinafter described and particu larlypointed out in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings forming a part of the present application,are illustrated the improved method as applied to the assembling of avamp and a toe cap, and one form of apparatus which may convenie'ntly beemployed in this method, the elements of which are constructed andarranged particularly for use in assembling these parts of a shoe. It isto be understood, however, that in its broader aspects the invention isnot limited to use in the relative positioning of these or any otherparts of an upper, but that it may be successfully employed inrelatively positioning other parts of a shoe.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure 1 is a plan view of a shoe vamptreated in accordance with the method forming a part of the presentinvention; Fig. 2 is a plan view of a toe cap or tip of a shoe, treatedin accordance with said method; and Fig. 3 is a perspective viewillustrating a form of apparatus which may be employed in the process ofassembling a vamp and a toe cap embodied in the work positioning andholding devices of a sewing machine for sewing one or more lines ofstitches through the overlapping margins of the vamp and toe cap toattach the same together.

In preparing parts of a shoe upper which are to be relatively positionedin accordance with the illustrated manner of practicing the presentinvention, each part is provided with positioning surfaces atpredetermined points specially shaped and arranged to control thelocation of the parts with relation to each other in the assemblingopera tion. Preferably, in such assembling operation, the relativelocation of the parts is fixed by bringing these positioning surfacesinto engagement with gages. The positioning surfaces may be providedeither at the time when the parts are died or dinl'ed out or otherwise.out to shape, or at any convenient stage in the manufacture of the shoe.The surfaces may be of any suitable shape. Preferably, however, they areformed by gaging perforations or holes, in the parts of the shoe to berelatively positioned, through which a gaging tool or pin may beinserted. Each of said surfaces is made at a point having apredetermined relation to the contour of the'part on which it is placedsuch that when the parts are assembled and the surfaces are placed inpredetermined relative positions the parts will be accurately located inpredetermined relation to each other. Preferably each surface is formedby a perforation or hole located in such a relation to the contour ofthe part on which it is placed that the parts may be positioned properlywith relation to each other by placing the perforations in registrationor alignment. When two or more positioning surfaces are madeon each ofthe parts, the surfaces of the series on one of the parts preferablyhave the same spacing and relative arrangement as the surfaces of theseries on the other of the parts, so that all of the several surfaces onthe first part may be placed respectively in exact registration with thesurfaces on the other part. When the parts are formed with perforationsor holes in the stock, as above described, the perforations may bereadily brought into exact registration by inserting a gaging toolthrough the corresponding perforations in the two parts. The gaging toolmay consist of an suitable instrument of the proper size to ht thegaging perforations in the parts. In the construction which has beenfound to be particularly suitable for the operation, the gaging toolsconsist of pins mounted upon a support, spaced substantially the samedistance apart and having the same relative arrangement as theperforations in one or both of the parts to be relatively positioned.The perforations in the parts are preferably made adjacent their marginsor at, points such that they will not be visible in the finished shoe.The perforations may be made at any convenient distances apart. When theperforations are made adjacent the margins of the parts, the spacing ofthe perforations will vary in parts of different sizes. To accommodatedifferent spacings of the parts to be relatively positioned the gagingpins may be relatively adjustable to vary their distances apart.

In Fig. 1 of the drawings is illustrated the vamp of a shoe, indicatedby the reference numeral 2, having positioning surfaces formed byperforations or holes 4: in the stock adjacent the forward margin of thevamp. In Fig. 2 is illustrated a toe cap or tip indicated by thereference numeral 6, having positioning surfaces formed by perforationsor holes 8 in the stock adjacent the rear margin of the toe cap, theperforations 8 being of substantially the same size as the perforations4: in the vamp. The perforations 4 in the vamp are spaced substantiallythe same distance apart as the perforations 8 in the toe cap and theperforations 4 in the vamp and the perforations 8 in the toe cap arelocated relatively to the outline of these parts in predeterminedpositions such that when the toe cap is placed on the vamp and theperforations 8 are brought into registration with the perforations 4 thetoe cap will be located accurately in the proper position relative tothe vamp. It is to be noted that in this method of relatively placingthe parts, the parts are relatively located laterally, longitudinallyand angularly in the correct positions. As illustrated in the drawing,the perforations ion the vamp are symmetrically placed relatively to thelateral edges of. the forward portion of the vamp, and are each spacedthe same predetermined distance from the forward edge of the vamp, andthe perforations upon the toe cap are symmetrically. placed withrelation to the lateral edges of the rear portion of the toe cap, andare each spaced the same predetermined distance from the rear edge ofthe toe cap.

In assembling the tip and the vamp after being perforated as described,the tip is placed with its rear margin overlapping the forward margin ofthe vamp, and is located relatively to the vamp by placing thecorresponding perforations in the parts in exact registration. The vampis formed with an arcuate forward edge, and the toe cap is formed withan arcuate rear edge, the radius of which is somewhat greater than thatof the forward edge of the vamp. With the gaging perforations located inthe Vamp and toe cap as described, the bringing of these'perforationsinto registration will place the rear edge of the toe cap substantiallyin concentric relation to the forward edge of the vamp. The bringing ofthe perforations into exact registration may be very easily performedwithout the exercise of any particular-skill or care,by inserting agaging pin through the corresponding perforations in the two parts. Suchgaging pins may consist of any suitable instruments of the proper sizeto fit the perforations, and may be held and manipulated by hand. Gagingpins, however, having the construction and arrangement illustrated inFig. 3 of the drawings, may be convenientlv employed.

In Fig. 3 of the drawings are illustrated work positioning and holdingdevices particularly designed for machines for sewing one or more linesof stitches through the overlapping margins of a toe cap and a vamp, andcomprising a pair of gage pins adjustably mounted on the work support orwork plate of the machine and devices for clamping the parts in positionafter having been properly located relatively to each other and to thework clamp. The construction illustrated in the drawings is designedparticularly to be embodied" in a machine havingsubstantially the sameconstruction 1 and arrangement of parts as the machine illustrated anddescribedin applicants Patent No. 1,174,750, dated March 7, 1916. In thedrawings, 10 indicates the work plate of the machine, 12 the lowermember of the work clamp, 14 the upper member of the clamp connectedwith the lower member by a hinged joint 16, 18 a cam for engaging theupper memberof the clamp to hold thesame. in closed relation to thelower member of the clamp pivoted on the stud '20 and having anoperating handle 22, 26 a frame sup- 7 and mode of operation as thecorresponding parts of the machine illustrated and described inapplicants patent referred to above. In this machine, devices not shownon the drawings of this application are provided for iding the workclamp in an arcuate pat to locate the lines of stitches properly in theoverlapping margins of the toe cap and vamp.

The gaging pins for use in relatively positioning the toe cap and vampand for 10- eating these parts properly in the work clamp, are indicatedat 30 and 32. These pins are mounted on the frame 26, and are arrangedto project upwardly through slots 34 and 36 in the work plate when theframe 26 is in elevated position. The pins are preferably located atsubstantially the same distances from the center about which the workclamp swings. The length of the pins is such that when elevated theywill project above the lower member 12 of the work clamp far enough topass through the perforations in both the vamp and the toe cap whenthese parts are superposed and the pins inserted through theperforations therein. The pins are similarly mounted on the frame 26 sothat they may be adjusted laterally of the work support and work clampto suit dilferent spacings of the perforations made in the parts of theshoe. The gage pins 30 and 32 are mounted on blocks 38 and 46 supportedon an adjusting rod provided with right and left handed threadedportions and 48 engaging the blocks. The

adjusting rod is mounted in bearings in pro- 1 jections 42 and 50 on theframe 26, and carries at one end a milled-edged disk 44, and at theother end a milled-edged disk 52, by which "the rod may be turned toadjust the gage pins.

In assembling and locating properly a vamp and toe cap formed withgaging perforations as illustrated in Figs..1 and 2 with theconstruction illustrated in Fig.3,

,assuming that the frame 26 is elevated so devices, and 28 a depreseerbar for that the gage pins 30 and the lower mei'nber of the clamp, andthat the pins are adjusted properly for the spacing of the perforationsin the parts, the amp is laid on the work support and lower member ofthe clamp and the gage pins 30 and 32 are inserted through theperforations l: in the vamp. When the vamp has been thus properly lo-caed relatively to the work clamp, the toe cap is placed in the clamp withits rear margin overlapping the for ward margin of the vamp, andthegagepins are then inserted in the gaging perforations 5% in the cap. If thevamp or the toe cap is wrinkled or warped, as is often the case afterthe parts have been rolled and tied in bundles, or has become shrunk,the distance between the perforations may be somewhat less than thespacing of the gage pins. In such case, the part is given the properlateral dimension by stretching the same laterally until the spacing ofthe gaging perforations is just suthcient to allow the pins to beinserted in the perforations. The gaging pins thus determine the properlateral dimensions of the parts. The stretching to which the parts aresubjected in placing them in position will not only extend theoverlapping portions thereof to their proper absolute and relativedimensions, but will smooth out all wrinkles and irregularities in thesefeatures so that they will lie evenly in superposed relations. After theparts are in place, the pins will then preserve the proper dimensions ofthe overlapping portions of the parts and the proper relative positionsof the parts until the work clamp is closed. The parts are thus locatedaccurately in proper relation to each other and in proper position inthe work clamp much more readily, than could be done by any methodheretofore followed, and the correct positioning of the parts isabsolutely insured without any particular skill or care on the part ofthe operator.

After the parts have been located in the clamp, as described, the uppermember of the clamp may be depressed to hold the parts securely in theproper positions, and the frame 26 may be lowered to withdraw the pinsbelow the upper surface of the work support. The parts are then held inthe clamp in the proper position for sewing.

Having pointed out the nature and object of the invention, and havingspecifically described the manner in which it may be applied and theconstruction in which it may be embodied, what is claimed is:

' 1. A method of relatively positioning two parts of the upper of a shoeand securing the same together which comprises making gagingperforations in each of said parts at 82 project above predeterminedpoints, extending the parts to their proper lateral dimensions,relatively locating the parts at all points adjacent the line alongwhich the fastenings are'to-be inserted, and holding the'same extendedtotheir proper lateral dimensions byinserting in said gaging perforationsgaging tools located in predetermined relative positions, and insertingfastenings-to secure the parts together.

2. A method of relatively positioning'two parts of the upper of ashoe-and securing the same together which comprises making gagingperforations in each of said: parts at predetermined points, placinggagingtools in predetermined relative positions, extending the parts totheir proper lateral dimensions, relatively locating the parts at allpoints adjacent the line along which thefastenings are to be inserted,and holding'the parts extended to their proper lateral dimensions byinserting sai-dgaging tools'in said gaging perforations, andinsertingfastenings in the parts to secure the same together.

A method of relatively positioning two parts of the upper of a shoeandsecuring the same together vhich comprises providing each of said partswith positioning surfaces shaped to locate at predeterminedpoints insaidparts, assemblingsaid parts, and rela tively positioning thesame byplacing-the positionirig-surfaces on the two parts in predeterminedpositions withrelation to gages, temporarily securing theparts in therelative positions in Wl11Cl1 they aretnus assembled, withdrawing thegages from operating positions, and inserting fastenings to-secure theparts together.

4. A method of relatively positioning two parts ofthe upper of a shoeand securing the same together which comprises making gagingperforations in each of said parts-at predetermined points, insertinggaging tools in said perforations to locate'the' parts in predeterminedrelative positions, temporarily securing the parts in the positions inwhich they are thus assembled to a movable support, withdrawing thegaging toolsifrom the perforations in said parts, and insertingfastenings to secure the parts together.

5. A method of relatively positioning a vamp and a toe cap and securingthe same together which comprises makingtwo or more gagingperforationsin a vamp adjacent its forward edge andin predeterminedrelation to its forward and lateral edges, making two or more gagingperforations in the toe capadjacent its rear edge and inpredetermined'relation to its rear and lateral edges having the samespacing as the perforations in the vamp, assembling the toecap and thevamp, extending the same to their proper lateral dimensions, locatingthe parts in predetermined relative positions at all points adjacent theline along which the has tenors are to be inserted and" holding the sameextended to' their proper lateral dimen- 'sions by inserting gagingtools in the perforations in the two parts to bring the perforationsinto exact registration, and while holding the parts in the positions inwhich they are thus assembled, presenting the same to fastener insertingmechanism.

6. A method of relatively positioning a vamp and a toe cap and securingthe same together which comprises making gaging perforations in a vampadjacent its forward edge and in predetermined relation to its forwardand lateral edges, making gaging perforations in the toe cap adjacentits rear edge and in predetermined relation to its rear and lateraledges and having the same spacing as the perforations in the vamp,1ocating gaging tools in predetermined relative positions, assemblingthe vamp and toe cap, extending the same to their proper lateraldimensions, locating the parts in predetermined relative positions atall points adjacent the line along which the fasteners are to beinserted and holding the same extended to their proper lateraldimensions by inserting said gaging tools in the perforations in the twoparts to bring the perforations into exact registration, and whileholding the parts in the positions in which they are thus assembled,presenting the same to fastener inserting mechanism.

7. A method of relatively positioning two parts of the upper of a shoeand securing the same together which consists in making gagingperforations in each of said parts at predetermined points, placing saidparts on a movable support, locating said parts in predeterminedpositions with relation to each other by inserting gaging tools in saidperforations, securing said parts temporarily to said support in thepositions in which they are thus assembled, and guiding said support ina predetermined path with relation to fastener inserting mechanism.

8. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding two parts of an upper each with positioning surfaces atpredetermined points specially shaped and arranged to control thelocation of said parts, and assembling said parts in relative fixedpositions controlled by the use of said surfaces.

9. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding a plurality of different parts of an upper with positioningsurfaces located respectively at predetermined points in said partswhich will be invisible in the finished shoe and shaped and arranged tocontrol the location of said parts, and securing said parts together inrelative fixed positions controlled by the use of said surfaces.

10. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding two parts of an upper each with a plurality of gaging holesand securing said parts togeth= er in relative fixed the use of saidholes.

positionscontrolled by 11. That improvement in methods of making shoeswhich consists in providing two parts of an upper each with gagingholes, fixing the relative positions of said parts by inserting gagingpins in said holes and securing the parts togetherin the relative positions thus fixed.

12. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding two parts of an upper each with a plurality of gaging holes ina portion of the part which will be invisible in the finished shoe,impaling the parts in said holes and aligning corresponding holes soasto fix the relative positions of said parts, and securing said partstogether in the relative positions thus 13. That improvement in methodsof making shoes which consists in providing two parts of an upper eachwith positioning surfaces at predetermined points shaped and arranged tocontrol the location of said parts, fixing the relative positions ofsaid parts by bringing the positioning surfaces on the parts intoengagement with gages, and securing the parts together in the relativepositions thus fixed.

14. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding the tip and the vamp of an upper each with gaging holes atopposite sides of said parts, impaling the tip and vamp in said holesand aligning corresponding holes so as to fix the relative positions ofthe tip and vamp, and stitching the tip and vamp together in therelative positions thus fixed.

15. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding each of a plurality of different parts of a shoe withpositioning surfaces located respectively at predetermined points insaid parts which will be invisible in the finished shoe, utilizing saidsurfaces and means oooperating therewith for locating adjacent parts ofthe shoe in predetermined relation to each other, and securing saidparts together in such relation by fastening means other than saidco-operating means.

16. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists inproviding each of two different parts of a shoe with gaging holeslocated in predetermined relation to the contour of the part and in aportion of the part which will be invisible in the finished shoe,locating said parts of the shoe in predetermined relation to each otherby engaging said parts in said holes, and by a separate operationsecuring said parts together while they are maintained in such reation.

17. That improvement in methods of making shoes which consists informing at predetermined points on two different parts of shoepositioning surfaces which are located respectively in predeterminedrelation both to the contour of the part on which they are formed andalso to like positioning surfaces on the other part, utilizing saidpositioningsurfaces for positively locating said parts of the shoe inpredetermined relation to each other, and 3y a separate operationsecuring said parts together while they are maintained in such relation.

18. That improvement in methods of makingshoes which consists in formingat predetermined points on two dii ferent parts of a shoe which are tobe secured together with overlapping edges positioningsu'rfaces whichare located respectively in predetermined re=lation both to the contourof the part on which they are formed and also to like positioningsurfaces on the other part,

positively locating said parts in predetermined relation to each otherwith their edges overlapping by engaging said positioning surfaces, andsecuring said parts together while they are maintained in such relation.

19. That improvement in methods of making shoes whichconsists in formingon different parts of a shoe-gaging holes located at predeterminedpoints with relation to the contours of the respective parts, positivelylocating said parts laterally, longitudinally and angularly in correctrelation to each other by impaling the parts inv said holes andsecnring'said parts together while they are maintained in such relation.

In testimony whereof I have signedv my name to this specification.

BENJAMIN F. MAYO.

